October 2024 – February 2025

2024-10-22

Victoria ✈️ Vancouver ✈️ Singapore ✈️ Siem Reap

It seemed a little weird this year heading off from home at 5:00pm. Can’t remember any of our trips to Asia that didn’t start at the crack of dawn. Not looking forward to yet another epic trek. This one is a long 31 hours from our door to our hotel in Siem Reap.

Yes it was another long flight, ✈️ exhausted, but very happy to see Kat (our always tuk-tuk driver) and his perpetual smiling face waiting for us at the Airport Bus Terminal to whisk us off to Beyond Yangon Inn where we were warmly greeted with ice lemon tea and dragon fruit by his sister Sokunthea. We met Sokunthea and husband Maung Maung way back in 2003 when they had the Mandalay Inn Guest House. Fast forward, they have continued their success, bought land and built a boutique hotel with 10 rooms, all decorated in a luxurious Burmese motif (Maung Maung was born in Burma/Myanmar) complete with swimming pool.

Once we recover from jet-lag, the routine for the next 10 days will be breakfast poolside, explore new parts of Siem Reap, the amazing Angkor Complex, nap at 2pm and plan for where to go for dinner. So many superb food choices, although we ofter end up just around the corner at SPOONS Café Restaurant

Tuesday we’ll start touring our favourite temples with Kat.

2024-10-28

Siem Reap, Getting acclimatized takes a few days. 🥵

It’s been a 4 days now since we arrived in Siem Reap after an exhausting 31 hours door to door. We have definitely been dragging our asses for the first 2 or 3 days, acclimatizing. For us that means basically hanging around the hotel, eating, short walks and sleeping. We did make a point of morning walks while it was cool though. It’s only just the beginning of tourist season, but Siem Reap is still struggling to get back on it’s feet after Covid.

The restaurant scene continues to churn, with many closures and new hopeful ventures everywhere. Our down time research during the spring and summer back home is reaping it’s benefits, and with more new development on the east side (our side) of the river to explore. Siem Reap is definitely growing up and continuing to gentrify.

2024-10-29

Siem Reap, First venture out to the Angkor Complex

Some of our days go like this: Kat collects us at 7:00 and we grab a cappuccino enroute to the Angkor complex. Riding in a tuk-tuk in the early morning is truly magical. All the locals are bustling around with morning duties, hopeful they will have a profitable day serving the tourists. The many narrow roads weave throughout forests of Angkor… more than 400 acres. Everything is still very green and lush as the rainy season has only just finished. The seasonal mossy hue covering many aspects of the temples is electric. It stretches the imagination when you realize that 1200 years ago, this was a city of almost 1,000,000 people. Bye comparison, London at that time had a population of only 80,000. Staggering.

Our first venture out to Angkor, was to visit the Preah Khan temple, built in 1191, the temple is still largely unrestored: the initial clearing was from 1927 to 1932. Since then free-standing statues have been removed for safe-keeping, and there has been further consolidation and restoration work. Throughout, the conservators have attempted to balance restoration and maintenance of the wild condition in which the temple was discovered. It’s beautiful. It’s a favourite that is missed by most, so we usually get to explore all alone in the silence, magically punctuated by flocks of raucous parrots screeching at each other. 🦜

2024-10-31

Siem Reap, New adventure out to Tonle Sap Lake

In past years we have loved hopping in Kat’s tuk-tuk and just heading out into the country side. Invariably we would meander the back roads and end up at the Phnom Krom causeway which is the gateway to Tonle Sap Lake. There used to be a boat that went from here all the way down to Phnom Penh. It seems to be paused since Covid.

Tonle Sap Lake is the largest lake in all of SEAsia. Having said that, it’s area is an interesting, moving target. At it’s minimum, it is 2,700 km2 and at it’s maximum it is 16,000 km2. This expansion happens every year to varying degrees depending on the intenseness of the monsoon rainy season in addition to seasonal typhoons. It expands as the flow of the Mekong increases to the point that when it finally overwhelms the downstream capacity of the Mekong Delta in Vietnam. This unique seasonal reversal is amazing on scope. Read all about it. ( Link )

This year we ventured to the Tonle Sap village, Kampong Phluk. The community largely depends on fishing for survival, primarily shrimp during the wet season. Most houses and buildings are constructed on stilts ranging from 6 to 9 meters to accommodate the changes in water level between wet and dry seasons. Imagine having to climb a 9 meter ladder during the dry just to get into your house.

Our 2 hour boat tour (down and back), took us 2-3 km down to the lake, passing through village life going on all around. Out on the lake we were met by the ubiquitous sampan, a lady selling snacks. We contributed with the purchase of a delicious green coconut. Yum 🤤

During the dry season (November–April) the river thins due to receding water, many turn to farming to supplement their income. Tourism, which started in the village approximately 10 years ago, is also a growing part of the local economy. As of 2019, the commune has 900+ families with a total population of 3000+.

2024-11-01

Siem Reap, Visiting old haunts, Ta Prohm Temple

Off we go, morning cappuccino in hand, to a favourite temple. Ta Prohm is easy to navigate and super photogenic. Unlike most Angkorian temples, it has been left in much the same condition in which it was found. The atmospheric combination of trees growing out of the ruins and the jungle surroundings have made it one of Angkor’s most popular temples with visitors.

This morning we were almost alone. Ta Prohm is also covered in electric green moss still hanging on from the rainy season. We have already taken Soooo many photos of these ruins, but just can’t resist a few more. Enjoying the photographic ability of the iPhone 14 Pro Max. I remember the days when we used to travel with rolls of Kodachrome 100 and every shot was very valuable and calculated. 🎞️

By the time we were done, the tour groups had descended on Ta Prohm with megaphones and flags to herd the masses. Our 2 hours here was great, now it’s back to town for breakfast. A short stop in the centre of town at the Royal Independence Gardens to see the giant fruit bats (Flying Foxes, these ones have a wing span of about 80cm). They don’t sleep where they eat. They prefer to fly the distance to munch on fresh fruit and then fly the same distance back to spend the day sleeping atop the trees of downtown Siem Reap.

Time for noodle, vegetable soup, a shower and some chill time in the A/C.

2024-11-02

Siem Reap, Visiting APOPO and Ta Som Temple

Today is our last chance to go out for the day with Kat. Tomorrow he has a previously booked client and we fly to Bangkok the day after. So today, we’re going to indulge in a “Tourist” venue: APOPO The name is from the Dutch, Anti-Persoonsmijnen OntmijnendeProduct Ontwikkeling. Anti-Personnel Landmines Detection Product Development

The short story is: back in 1997’ish an Belgian man was reading about gerbils 🐹 being used for land mine detection. He had pet rats 🐀 and thought they would be more appropriate. Fast forward, he got a grant in Belgium for a study and today we have APOPO. They are lighter than sniffer dogs, so less risk of accidental detonation. They can clear an area in 1 day that would normally take 4 weeks.

We went early and luckily got into a group with just 1 other couple. A quick briefing and a demo with the handlers and then a touchy feely, hold the rats bit. Quite large and very docile. It was a very well done, very informative presentation. 👍

Now we’re off to Ta Som Temple, a small, usually quite, out of the way site. It’s so interesting that they are so similar but on such different scales. A quick wander around, more stunning photos, then back to town. We treated Kat to avocado, poached egg, toast. It’s always a little weird taking Kat out for a meal. Breakfast for the 3 of us was CA$25, as it was an upscale western joint. Kat’s daily rate for a Full Day is US$25. But, he is worldly enough to get it, and be very gracious.

After, Kat dropped us back at the hotel and we said our goodbyes till we meet again. And as we age, the next time get increasingly nebulous.

2024-11-04

Flying Siem Reap to Bangkok

Our time in Siem Reap has come to an end. 10 days just seemed to zoom by. Had a great time, and now we are off to Bangkok for 5 nights.

The new airport at Siem Reap was constructed 60km from town, which means tuk-tuks are not so feasible as transport choices. That’s a big hit for small time drivers income. Chinese money built the new facility and they have the contract to operate it for 30 years. Very Chinese architecture. Huge and with very big taxes and fees. So much so that many airlines have paused coming. We’ll see.

A short 45 minutes to Bangkok, sky-train to downtown and then Grab (Uber in Asia) to our riverside hotel. First order of business is to get SIM cards for Thailand. Can’t order Grab till we have a phone number. 7-11 has a great deal, unlimited data and Thai phone calls for 30 days – THB 350 (CA$14). As usual there is a 7-11 everywhere, so short walk from our station. As we sat in a small plaza, SIM’ing up our phones, a security person approached to say we could not sit there and we should move inside the building. As I questioned the logic of that while in the middle of phone mechanics, out of the corner of my eye I caught movement. I turned to face 3 meters away, a 2m long snake was rapidly trying to gain purchase on the slippery granite. We quickly relocated. Have never encountered a snake in downtown Bangkok in 45 years. 😱

Welcome to Bangkok, excitement over, we hailed our Grab and headed for The Ibis Riverside Bangkok. 😎

2024-11-05

Bangkok, down by the river.

The Ibis Riverside Bangkok. Absolutely fabulous location right on the river, very nice pool and breakfast included, a great deal at CA$98/night. 😎

After staying for a month in Bangkok last year we are enjoying being back in the Bangkok, Blade Runner vibe. The food choice are so very varied. (did I just say that?)

We stayed on the west side of the river for most of our time, but did venture over to MBK, the huge Thai style mall downtown. Also revisited New Road to stop in at SiamBronzeFactory to buy a replacement dinner fork.

Caught the spectacular ICONSiam Water Light Show form the 7th floor balcony. Wow this city is on such another level. 🤯🎆. The river view at night is like no other. Bangkok is back, scads of dinner cruise boats jockeying to dodge the tugs with their barge trains, not to mention the speeding long-tail boats zooming around.

2024-11-08

Bangkok, Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen

This is first time we’ve stayed on the west side of the Chao Phraya River in Bangkok. We’re finding it much more local that downtown notwithstanding the areas around hotels and malls. We’re lucky to have several local restaurants right at the end of the access lane entrance to our hotel. A short walk to many dinner choices.

Today’s adventure is to Wat Paknam Phasi Charoen which house the largest Buddha Statue in Bangkok, the image is 69 meters (226 ft) tall. The image is made in meditation posture. The material the image is made of is pure bronze, making the image the first of its kind in the world. The temple’s grounds are shaped like an island, surrounded by canals.

Unfortunately, the Buddha was shrouded in scaffolding getting some last minute remediation. But we did get to enjoy the stupa named “Maharatchamongkhon”. The 80 meters (260 ft) high stupa has a twelve-sided polygon shape with five floors in it, including another 8-meter glass stupa. The stupa was finished in 2012, costing a total of 500 million baht. The dome ceiling at the top floor is spectacular.

Even thought the Buddha statue was shrouded, we hopped in a small boat to do a half hour cruise around the complex and get a feel for everyday life the people have who live here. Fun.

2024-11-24

Bangkok to Chiang Mai – Nivas Serviced Apartments Hotel

It’s a travel day today, Bangkok to Chiang Mai. No issues, but it does seem to take all day. Taxis to the airport can take 2 hours navigating the sometimes horrendous Bangkok traffic. We opted to get to BKK early and do our waiting in a lounge rather than late checkout at the hotel. The flight was an uneventful 1 hour, then a 15 minute taxi to our new digs.

The Nivas Hotel Chiang Mai was a Joann find. We had already booked an Airbnb when she happened upon this place. The attraction was… a different location in town, it’s a serviced apartment and it has a way better price point. Even thought the published daily rate is CA$127/N, the monthly rate breaks down to CA$35/N. 😎 Book it Danno!

Real life did not disappoint. Our research had lead us to picking the 7th floor Deluxe Corner Suite. Correct choice. Windows on 3 sides, morning view at the kitchen table is sunrise over a 27 acre forested Jesuit Retreat, the south side overlooks the pool and west side is the balcony off the bed-sitting room looks at Doi Suthep, the 1,676 metres (5,499 ft) mountain that house the famous temple at the summit . Evening sunsets are sweet. And… it’s the first thing you see in the morning from bed.

Extremely well run, terrific staff, fastidiously clean, nice solid substantial furniture and a new local neighbourhood to explore. We’re so happy that we’ve even booked 2 months for next year, 2025-2026. 🎉

2024-11-09

Chiang Mai – Pine Café

We’ve been here 2 weeks now. Really enjoying the new locale near CMU (Chiang Mai University). During our research (Google street viewing) around the neighbourhood, we saw a hole in the wall coffee shop… the Pine Cafe. It’s a 3 story townhouse where the first 2 floors house a boutique artisan coffee shop. What a gem. Kinda cute and unexpected from the outside, but a delightful peaceful enclave within.

Just inside the front door are an auto-food-water station and an automated kitty litter appliance for the resident 5 cats. They are delightful, but a quite aloof/bored with the attention.

Past the front service area opens into a high ceiling room with stairs to the mezzanine with more tables. This room is such a chill place to have a relaxing cappuccino. And we do, often.

2024-11-28

Chiang Mai – Bits and Pieces

Luck for us (actually it wasn’t luck, it was one of the deciding factors for choosing the Nivas Hotel) and just a 7 minute walk is a huge open air food court with 20 or 30 restaurant options serving very good Thai food and other Asian styles (Japanese, Korean and some pseudo western). Also many stalls featuring take-away snacks on sticks, always a local favourite especially with students. Yes this huge every evening food extravaganza is just across from the entrance to CMU (Chiang Mai University). 27,000 student have to eat somewhere; and you know that means, cost effective, top quality and tasty as hell. If it was otherwise they wouldn’t last. We agree and dine here frequently.

Also in our neighbourhood just past the Pine Café is a local business area with morning soup joints, fresh food stalls, and various shops, a 7-11, and the Nana Bakery. Yay, the Nana is a wonderful hole in the wall bakery, serving croissants of all sorts and artisan breads. Loving their sourdough rye.

We’re trying to get out in the cool mornings and explore various neighbourhoods. Take a ride hail to a specific city location we haven’t been to and walk around looking for a new breakfast experience.

Saturday we went to the Jing Jai weekend market. Caters to more upscale Thais or Asian tourists with “cute” clothes and nick-nacks. Lot’s of street/finger food stalls and artisan coffee baristas and multiple seating areas with live mellow music.

The Sunday Evening Walking Street was way to crowded. We only lasted one block before making our escape. The next morning we went up to the Wat Phra That Temple at the top of Doi Suthep (Mount Suthep). Haven’t been up the top for many years and have actually never been to the very famous Temple. So, check that off.

2024-12-20

Chiang Mai – Bits and Pieces (Part 2)

Well it seems like our time here in Chiang Mai has gone far too soon. In one week we head south to Krabi. I think there is something to the old adage that time goes quicker as we age. We spent so much time researching and planning last spring for our 7 weeks here. Pooof. 💨

Life has been blissful and we’ve fallen into an easy going schedule. Starts with coffee, then out for a 2km’ish walk. We are just a short walk to the Chiang Mai University campus (38,000+ students), where there are 725+ acres of park land with scattered Faculty buildings and numerous artisan coffee shops for a cappuccino. Then it’s home for breakfast, unless we find a option while walking, which does seem happen 50% of the time. Somewhere around noon we hit the pool for laps. By 2pm it’s getting to be hot enough to hang out in air conditioning.

Often we pick a new spot around town, taxi to it, do our walk and discover what new neighbourhoods have to offer, and catch breakfast out and about. There are literally thousands of options and we’ve discovered that Chiang Mai is super vegan friendly.

One afternoon we headed off to the “Charming Chiang Mai Flower Festival”, a large free event put on by local government showcasing huge flower installations at the edge of a reservoir lake. It was a very well put together event with bespoke flower beds of local and international flowers, as well as ornamental plants. The orchid installation was very impressive, extremely tropical, not to mention beautiful. As always at Thai happenings, the food choices are never ending. Literally hundreds of street food on offer. As the sun set, the millions of twinkle lights came to life making the whole event sparkle. Very impressive. 👍

Last Saturday, after our walk around a local park, complete with a box hedge labyrinth, our morning outing took us to the Nong Ho Flea Market, just north of the city. It’s open every weekend morning. There were all kinds of items related to Thai life. We spent 3 hours strolling around the hundreds of marques displaying Thai amulets, pseudo antiques, car and motor cycle parts, clothing (old and new) also many popup food vendors. We had breakfast, curried fish for Joann and spicy chicken for Bob. Great adventure. The morning sun was bright and everyone was relaxed. Very pleasant.